One of my colleagues asked me to design a pendant jacket around her grandmother’s diamond. I love the idea of a pendant jacket, but realize that it does have some issues to consider. First, the diamond needs to nestle flush into whatever metal will be surrounding it. Secondly, and most importantly, the height of the jacket should complement the height of the setting of the diamond so that the diamond looks well framed as an integral part of the entire piece. Lastly, the weight of the jacket needs to be light enough so that it can be added to a chain along with the diamond without putting undue strain on the chain.
The rendering above is one solution I have come up with to meet all of these parameters. The side view of the metal and diamond circles in this pendant would need to be either open or hollowed-out gold (or white metal, in the case of the bead-set diamond circles), so that the pendant would still be light enough on the chain.